Padel balls: differences, pressure, lifespan – and which ones to buy

The rules of the world federation FIP define the padel ball precisely: 6.35 to 6.77 centimetres in diameter, 56 to 59.4 grams, with an internal pressure of 10 to 11 psi. Dropped from 2.54 metres it must bounce between 135 and 145 centimetres. A tennis ball carries noticeably more pressure at 12 to 14 psi and may be slightly larger.

The difference sounds small but is big on court. The padel ball is slower and bounces lower – exactly what the game needs: after hitting the glass the ball should still be reachable, and lobs shouldn't constantly fly over the four-metre back wall. With a tennis ball every lob becomes an error and every rally an arms race – try it on a 20 by 10 metre court and after three points you'll understand why padel has its own balls.

All the big brands make a tournament ball, and the differences lie in the details – felt, pressure retention, speed:

• HEAD Padel Pro and Pro S: The standard on the pro tour and at most German tournaments. The S stands for Speed – slightly more pressure, for cold indoor courts and high altitude.
• Bullpadel Premium Pro and Next Pro: The Spanish tournament ball, a little softer in the felt and durable.
• Dunlop Pro Padel: Very common in Germany, consistent pressure over several sessions.
• Wilson Padel X3 and Babolat Padel Tour: Good alternatives with a similar feel, often cheaper by the case.

For club players that means: play the ball your tournament calendar dictates. Check the tournament calendar to see which ball your next event uses and train with it – switching from Dunlop to HEAD Pro S feels different from the first serve.

A can of three balls is good for three to four matches once opened, if playing quality matters. After that the ball has lost too much pressure: it bounces dead, flies shorter and is harder to read off the glass. For casual training the balls last a few hours longer.

The simple test: drop a ball from shoulder height. If it no longer bounces to hip height, it's done. Two things shorten a ball's life considerably: cold (outdoors in winter a ball visibly loses pressure and bounce) and sand from the artificial turf, which roughens the felt and makes the ball faster.

If you want more from your balls, store them in a pressure can (ball saver) that keeps the internal pressure – worth it from two matches a week. Pressureless balls exist too, for ball-machine training or clubs that supply balls; in a match they feel wooden.

• Can or case: A can (three balls) costs 5 to 8 euros. A case of 24 cans brings the price down to 4 to 5 euros per can – at two matches a week that pays off after two months.
• Normal or Speed: Speed versions (HEAD Pro S, Bullpadel Next Pro) carry more pressure and are meant for cold halls and altitude. In a warm hall in summer they get fast. When in doubt: the standard version.
• Tournament or training: For training the cheaper ball of the same brand is fine – what matters more is that it isn't flat already.
• Best-before date: Unopened cans hold their pressure for about two years, after that it fades even sealed. Check the date on special offers.
• Storage: Cool, not in a car in the sun, opened cans in a pressure can.

At DPV tournaments and most Playtomic events the organiser supplies the balls – a new can per match is the norm. On the pro tour balls are changed at fixed game intervals to keep the pace consistent. For you that means: you only need your own balls for training and matches with friends. Everything else in the rulebook – serve, scoring, golden point – is explained in the padel rules. And if you don't have a racket yet, the racket pages help you choose.